Hi guys, part 4 covers the washes stage, I have included some comparison photos for you, firstly I paint up the details, tools, rubber tires etc (these aren't completed yet, just a base coat) I add some scratches with a dark grey (don't over do these, less is best)
The washes are done with artist oils diluted with Mineral Turpentine, I have added 2 washes, the first was done with Burnt Umber, the second was Burnt Umber with a little Carbon Black, I don't use exact measurements, I take a small dollop of oil paint on the end of a brush and add Turps to it until it is like dark dirty water, the first wash is applied all over the model, and will darken the paint a little, the 2nd darker wash is applied only to the detail areas, not the smooth surfaces.
The oil paint in the wash solution has a tendency to quickly sink to the bottom of the solution, this is a very handy trait, it gives me the option of how much pigment I want in each brush full of wash, if I have very fine detail I am washing I will use the wash at the top of the pool, if I have a deep crease I want to fill with darker wash I will stir the sediment starting at the bottom and the last couple of stirs at the top, this ensures the actual oil paint washes out of the brush, so you are not applying straight oil paint to the model.
the benefits of using an oil paint/turps wash over say an acrylic wash are
1) the oil/turps mix flows very easily and covers an area evenly, and the paint particle tend to gravitate to the creases, acrylic washes can pool and leave rings of pigment in unwanted areas.
2) oil paint has a very long drying time (around 2 days), this can be annoying if you are trying to work fast, however it does allow the paint to be adjusted and manipulated or removed if over done, the thickness/darkness can be adjusted using a brush damp with turps. Next up will be the tracks.